What I write about when I write about ramen - Part 2.

Ok, where was I?

Right, you want to know where to find ramen better than Hakata Gensuke in Melbourne.

I have two places in mind.

But let's not rush into things.
Let's take a walk back in time again.

Total Recall.

In 2013, I took Chika to Nagi, a ramen joint in Golden Gai, Shinjuku up a narrow flight of stairs and had our first ever Tsukemen - a type of ramen which you dip the thick noodles into thicker, concentrated anchovy broth. She didn’t like it.

In 2015, we had our very first Tori Paitan (think Tonkotsu but chicken) ramen in Kagari, Ginza, and it took us months to decide if we liked it or not.

In 2016 a friend just matter-of-factly took me to an Abura Soba (ramen without soup) shop because she ate there every week.

When I visited Tokyo again in 2018 there was Afuri specialising in Yuzu flavoured soy and other types of vegetable ramen. Meanwhile, Tsukemen has gone mainstream (the no.1 ramen store in Tokyo - Tomita, as voted by hardcore fans and featured on the documentary 'Ramen Heads', makes Tsukemen).

I saw posters of tomato ramen.

Speaking strictly as a tourist, not even a fanatic, it’s obvious that the ramen scene changes so quickly in Japan.

Check out Tabelog's top 100 ramen store in Tokyo and see if you can catch any resemblance to your average bowl of Tonkotsu ramen in the list.

My point is, Tokyo was forever sprinting for gold in the 100m dash when it comes to ramen, and Melbourne, well, we’re content with our vanilla Tonkotsu, and wherever with vegan options.

So what did I do as a 'ramen correspondent' for Broadsheet?

Nothing.

Well, close to nothing anyway. The title was like the ‘VP’ corporates give away when they can’t pay you real money. (Had some free ramens though.)
In 2 years, I covered another 5 ramen shops - 3 was other branches of Hakata Gensuke.

And then, the editor left.
I went to have a baby, and have never shot another place for Broadsheet since.

5 years later in 2020, after my deep sleep, what happened to Melbourne's ramen scene? What’s the latest gos?

Another Hakata Gensuke LOL

This time along Lygon street.
I didn't even have to queue anymore.

Black is crack.

Ok I lied, there was Gogyo.

I have to admit I kinda rolled my eyes when I saw it in Broadsheet.

An off-brand from Ippudo, in Fitzroy.
Just another cash-grabbing franchise yea?

It wasn't until a client suggested we meet there for lunch, that I kinda ‘get’ the place.

First of all, Gogyo makes Kogashi ramen.

Kogashi means 'burnt', that's literally how they make the ramen broth.

Lard in a wok until 300°C, toss the miso / soy, make fire, then in with the broth, and your ramen is black in colour. You think your basque burnt cheesecake was cool? Well, ramen was here first.

No one can make this at home.
The home kitchen stove isn't hot enough, the air duct not strong enough.
I mean, what we're creating is grease fire, and grease fire is the beginning of fire-truck-to-the-rescue-identifying-teeth-in-morgue fire.

I'm a maillard reaction guy, so burnt umami is really my kryptonite.

My wife though, she likes the chili shoyu, which is neither here or there. Maybe parenthood changed her tonkotsu palette as well.

Honestly, the spacious space with timber chairs and counter with the dark ambient is really ... nice.

With COVID I can book online, specify which table I want for that natural light for food photography.

They’re limiting patrons for social distancing. No queue, no more ticking boxes in a form and sharing table with strangers while the staff yells 'welcome!' and ‘goodbye!’. The Olympics is kinda off the table, so it’s good to tone down some of that enthusiasm.

If you're not after ramen, they have Japanese curry on rice. Rice.

It's not a ramen shop, it's a gastro pub that serves a one-of-a-kind ramen.

Two weeks ago I took some parent friends there, the mother didn't even order ramen - just the side dishes. Crab bites, fried chicken, fried octopus, fried eggplant. (Ok, I do have a warning. They kinda deep fried everything else that's not ramen here.)

I even ordered sake.

They want you to stay, get your ass comfortable, order drinks, and other little things to increase profit margins.

Now that I eat out once every few weeks, I'm ok with that.

And there’s always parking, too.

To each their own, really.

I have a dad friend who loves Shujinko along Russell street (his favourite COVID take away stop). The Carlton Hakata Gensuke is a good meeting place for my local friends with kids. I’d imagine the chicken Hakata Gensuke is a godsend for muslims.

All those, are ‘socialising’ money.
If we’re talking about ‘value for money’ money, Gogyo is the only one that I’m willing to fork out cash, because of its kogashi ramen.

And also, because they’re the only ones left in the world.

It seems like all the Gogyo's in Japan have shut down.
The HK site has a Terminator poster saying 'I'll be back' … since 2019.

Remember the curry puff uncle?
I have a bad feeling about this.

Try it out while you still can.

And I'll see you at part 3.

To be continued.

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